After another "rolly" night, we arrive early in the morning at the Auckland Islands. We have travelled 152 km from the Snares, we are 725 km south of New Zealand. Auckland Island itself is about five times the size of Waiheke (at 57,000 hectares).
This from the Heritage Expeditions handbook:
"The islands are rich in wildlife - as they are a refuge for thousands of birds and sea lions. And in history, with a colourful past of lost treasure, ships and settlements. H. Escott-Inman’s book was an account, told in romantic terms, of the highs and lows of being a castaway. It told the story of the Dundonald survivors on Disappointment Island. Download the document (52KB) to read about the castaways' ecstasy when a ship appeared on the horizon, and then despair when it turned away. Download attachment (PDF file, 51.82 KB)"
Here is a map of the islands.
We start the day with breakfast at 6. I have cereal and fruit, and the occasional croissant. There is plenty to choose from, and it is help yourself.
At 7.15 we have a briefing about the Auckland Islands. Judd gives this in the lecture room. The lecture room, we are told, used to be the room for deciphering code - the ship was built in 1984 as a Russian spy ship. Heritage lease the ship from the Russian government. They do all the maintenance work and last year it had a refurbish of most things on the ship. The ship goes to the Arctic and the Antarctic.
Judd has been running these tours for 20 years. He started as a cook, and was a chef for 6 years. He says he never interferes with the chefs and makes sure they are super acknowledged.
This what I learnt about the Maori in Auckland Islands. "The islands are of great cultural and spiritual significance to Ngāi Tahu. Traditions include stories of expeditions to the Auckland Islands to gather food and other natural resources, by Waitaha, Kāti Māmoe and Ngāi Tahu in succession. The story of Tama Rereti tells of a group of chiefs and tohunga who were the first to venture into the southern ocean, searching for the Aurora Australis. The islands are known to iwi both as Maungahuka (a name which may reference the white tips on mountainous waves in the surrounding seas) and Motu Maha."
Then there was Charles Enderby’s dream, this taken from DOC website. "Enderby proposed that the Auckland Islands could become a major whaling base and thriving agricultural settlement. The firm took out a lease on the islands for 30 years and set up the British Southern Whale Fishery Company. The Southern Whale Fishery Company settlement of Hardwicke was the shortest-lived of all British colonies. Promoted in 1850 as a whaling base and agricultural colony, with Charles Enderby as its own resident Lieutenant Governor, the settlement grew to a population of 300, but was abandoned after 2 years when the fishery collapsed and the environment proved too inhospitable for vegetables & crops."
And Māori and Moriori settlement: "The Taranaki invasion of the Chatham Islands in 1835 had not enabled all the invaders to gain land, so 40 Ngāti Mutunga and their 26 Moriori slaves came south in 1842. By 1849, when the European settlers arrived, the Māori and Moriori had settlements on both Enderby Island and Auckland Island. Two chiefs, Matioro and Manature, cooperated with the new arrivals. The chiefs served as constables and their people worked as labourers and grew vegetables for the settlement."
Other things I learned about Auckland Islands:
"Auckland islands were formed by two volcanoes and then they were eroded by the sea, and flooded. The volcanic rocks rest on a basement of coarse - grained biotite granite up to 100 million years old and exposed at Granite Point on Musgrave Peninsula. A history of more eruptions, and glaciers has carved out the islands. This flat - lying lava flow formed an Enderby Island cliff and displays columnar jointing. As the lava flow ‘froze’ from mole rock these columns formed like hexagonal pencils, as the lava gradually cooled and shrank."
These rocks are similar to what we saw at the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland.
Bristow discovered the islands in 1806. He named them after Lord Auckland. He did not stay. There were many shipwrecks and several attempts were made to farm on the island. Sheep, and cattle did not take off because of the boggy peat soils. Lots of shipwrecks had the island be available for cast aways. Finger posts, such as this one on Enderby Island, were erected by the New Zealand government to point castaways to provision depots.
You are probably wondering why you haven't seen any wildlife yet. I am too ashamed to show my bird photos, which I have taken off the back of the deck. The birds are too fast for me. I am learning the birds as well. This is a Royal albatross - I just love this albatross. They have the biggest wingspan at an average of 3 metres. I will work on getting a better shot with my camera. There are 14 different species of albatross to get.
Here is what I have been practising with video, which I am prepared to show. This is mollymawks in flight.
The zodiacs took us to Sandy Bay, on Enderby Island. One by one we get on. They take 10 people plus the driver. Here we are waiting for Heidi (operations director) to tell us we are all good to walk down the stairs. She checks whether you have a life jacket, you are hands free. Russian crew were always there to assist at the bottom. I loved a person's comment when I got in - "Here comes the gazelle." That made my day. After that every time I got in, I thought "Be a gazelle" haha.
We arrive at Sandy Bay, and step over a lovely big crab.
Eric negotiated Bill's group through the sea lions. The gazelle had gone on an earlier zodiac because I thought Bill had gone ahead as I couldn't find him! Back to the sea lions. This was their home after all. We wouldn't like someone just to arrive at our home uninvited! Eric is saying with his stick "We are not messing with you, we are coming to observe you and not hassle you."
Bill kept to the group and the rules here. He was aware it was someone else's home, and was not going to take chances! He is in the front row of three, in the middle with the grey beanie on.
We set off on our walk.
And into some bush. We see a tomtit (my photo).
Robert, Tracy, Daniel, Dr John and Fran have all assisted in giving me photos for my blog. I want to thank you each and every one of you here so much. I know my blog would not be anything without your fabulous photos. I asked probably cheekily, and you so willingly gave them to me. So thank you here. I am so grateful, as I am just an emerging photographer and birder.
The terrain varies.
We saw a bellbird - this was from John.
And then the terrain looks like this.
We walk onto a board walk that takes us to the other side of Enderby that DOC (Department of Conservation) built about 10 years ago. That is Tracy in front. Every night she would go through her photos with me and give me what I wanted. Thanks Tracy.
We see an albatross - it is a Royal.
And this is a Royal nesting.
These are megafauna plants.
Taken from DOC website" "The Auckland Islands have the richest flora of the five island groups. 196 native species have been recorded. The vegetation of the Auckland Islands subdivides by distinct altitudinal zones with the width of each changing as you get further south. In the salt spray zone there is often a herb turf. Above it, in exposed sites, you will find tussock land, with associated herbs. The only sizable dune area is Sandy Bay on Enderby Island. Beyond the coastal zone, in more sheltered sites of the north and east, is a forest made up totally of southern rata (metrosideros) – the same species as in the South Island. The many twisted and gnarled stems of the rata give the forest a haunted atmosphere. The soft tree fern also grows on the Auckland Islands – the most southern habitat for a tree fern."
It must be the cauliflower plant!
Then some of the group find the 'very hard to find' Auckland Island snipe (Robert's pic).
I got a video.
And then two banded dotterel in one shot! Though I did not achieve great colour!
A close up.
We saw a chick. The mother pretended to be injured, and did a ‘broken wing’ show. They do this when their young are threatened. We stopped immediately and backed off. I just missed the video, a picture I found online.
We walked on and saw an albatross chick. They fly after 8-9 months.
We get to the other side of the island.
This is where the light mantled sooty albatross nest.
Then we walk back to Sandy Bay.
Nearby we see the rare Auckland Island teal.
And then very cool, a New Zealand falcon.
Lots of skua.
One just looking.
Then it was a zodiac ride to see Auckland Island 's very own shag.
Sorry I took this portrait and cannot turn it - Auckland Island shags.
Rockhopper penguins.
Rockhoppers in action.
Yellow eyed penguin.
Auckland Islands speak ...
"I am thrilled humans are here. I used to scream up to the sky Ranginui, to uri (my ancestors) and to taniwha’s - 'Where are you all? Help me please?' No one came until now. I had to be patient and I am so glad I was. I am now getting a bit of pampering. I have heard I might get rid of the feral cats, pigs and mice."
"I would love so much to return to my former self. I want to tell the world I evolved over 80 million years, and not long after flora and fauna evolved with me. With me and 80 million years to evolve is key here. Then in 10 years, those living things which took 80 million years to evolve - fur seals, whales and albatrosses - were decimated by mostly humans.
Humans have a generous side and a flip side. I am happy with humans' generous side when they evolve to serve nature. They admire all that I have and they want me richer with flora and fauna (to maintain my endemic species and even increase the number of species I have.)
The flip side is humans forget they are just a part of nature and we are all one. They decimated trees, got consumed with something else, and that made me sicker and sicker. Mice, cats and pigs have nearly killed me. They eat all my clothing - birds eggs and young birds - which have me thrive.
Endemic species who took 80 million years to evolve have kept me warm and healthy. Losing whanau members who have evolved with me for over nearly 80 million years makes me sad, makes me cry and makes me resigned.
Thank you nature loving humans for turning me into a World Heritage site. That was 1998. I am guessing and trusting, you who have just visited me are the generous, nature loving humans.
Evolving, nature loving, generous humans, thank you in advance for using your tools to assist me and my longevity. Talking to uri, your survival also depends on nature loving, generous actions."
Keep this whakataukī (Maori proverb) forever.
Here is the future: 'Auckland Islands, a glimpse of NZ's predator free future', RNZ Checkpoint
We have dinner. We are dining with Mark and Fran, Kate and Mike (he must be out getting more dessert), Don and Tracy (maybe she's taking the photo?)
I go to the bird list call. Bill prefers to study the books to know what some of these birds are. There are a lot of birds to add to those I have photographed and videoed. I tick my bird list if anyone sighted them - I might have seen and do not know what it is yet! eg. red crowned parakeet (I did see that.) These are the additions - White capped albatross, Shining bronze cuckoo, Tui, Auckland pipit (I saw this too), Silvereye, Thrush, Blackbird, Redpoll, Greenfinch.
Then we go to bed (note Bill's legs). The days are long down here, so it's not dark yet.
