We are taking the ferry from Bluff to Rakiura.
It is delayed by half an hour. Lachie is trying not to notice. Anna is excited no matter what. This is everyone in our group on this trip in their different spaces (from left Lachie, Chiara, Bill, Daniel, Anna, and Mahkaila.)
Finally we get going. This is the lighthouse which has been here since the early 1900's guiding boats into Bluff - this from 'Lighthouses of Foveaux Strait - A History' by Angela Bain.
"The historic Southland lighthouses tell a story of an era that is gone and will never return. For 131 years, from 1859 to 1990, keepers lived with their families at lighthouses around New Zealand. With the advent of automated technology the world of the lighthouse keeper was no more. New Zealand was the first country in the world to totally automate its lighthouses. Centre Island lighthouse in the west of Foveaux Strait was one of the last two lighthouses in NZ to be de-manned."
"Dog Island lighthouse is New Zealand’s tallest and perhaps most distinctive light with its black and white stripes. Constructed in 1865 in the dangerously shallow and narrow stretch of water near Bluff Harbour, Dog Island had the first revolving light in the country."
The ferry takes one hour. We arrive in Oban, and walk 5 minutes to the South Sea Hotel, where we are staying for the first two nights.
About Rakiura from Wikipedia: "Stewart Island, officially named Stewart Island/Rakiura, is the third-largest island of New Zealand. It lies 30 kilometres (19 mi) south of the South Island, across the Foveaux Strait. Its permanent population is 381 people as of the 2013 census, most of whom live in the settlement of Oban on the eastern side of the island.
The original Māori name, Te Punga o Te Waka a Maui, positions Stewart Island firmly at the heart of Māori mythology. Translated as The Anchor Stone of Maui’s Canoe, it refers to the part played by the island in the legend of Maui and his crew, who from their canoe, the South Island, caught and raised the great fish, the North Island.
Rakiura is the more commonly known and used Māori name. It is usually translated as Glowing Skies, possibly a reference to the sunsets for which it is famous or for the aurora australis, the southern lights that are a phenomenon of southern latitudes."
After rooms were allocated we walked to our booked boat ride to Ulva Island. The ferry leaves at 1.00pm. We had ordered packed lunches for the ferry ride and tuck into them. Yum.
We see kororā (little blue penguin) straight away.
And Salvin's albatross.
And Southern Royals.
Boatsheds are sought after as you are now not allowed to build or rebuild them - you can keep them maintained only.
Paterson Inlet.
The Stewart Island Experience says about Ulva Island:
"Ulva Island is a pristine forested island situated within Paterson Inlet. It is managed by the Department of Conservation and supported by the Ulva Island Charitable Trust as an open island sanctuary. It is one of the few predator-free sanctuaries in New Zealand. Open to the general public, whether it be for a family picnic or for anyone interested in native birds or flora, it's well maintained tracks offer easy walking for most people and gives one the opportunity to enjoy the birds, lovely beaches and views.
The island, which covers an area of 269ha is a 10 minute ride by boat from Golden Bay. Although it has no permanent inhabitants, about 7.6ha is privately owned. The owners can come and go as they please.
The Ulva Island Charitable Trust are a group of dedicated Stewart Islanders who help to raise funds for tracks and infrastructure and assist with bird releases and research work.
Since the eradication of rats, Ulva Island has become our ‘Jewel in the Crown', offering a predator-free environment for rare and endangered birds including South Island Saddleback, Yellowhead, Rifleman, Stewart Island Robin, Stewart Island Brown Kiwi."
We will see how many of these we can see. This is the private owner's residence at Post Office Cove, named because it was the first post office for Stewart Island. On mail day in the late 18th and early 19th century, all the locals used to row to here to get their mail, and apparently have a bit of a party as well.
We wander and start looking for birds. Grace is our guide.
We have spotted a saddleback (tīeke) - very special!
"The saddleback is a medium sized (25 cm), forest dwelling passerine. Adults of both sexes have similar plumage, the main feature of which is the conspicuous chestnut-coloured saddle on the bird's back. Males have larger wattles than females. Young birds less than 15 months old have quite different plumage to adults. They are entirely dark brown, and have small wattles. The imprint of the saddle forms by the end of the birds' second moult. These juveniles are known as "jack-birds". This distinctive juvenile colour phase is absent in the North Island subspecies in which the young assume the "saddleback" marking before they leave the nest. Of the eleven islands where saddlebacks now occur nine are protected."
It is good luck to talk to someone through the gap in this tree. This is Chiara practicing.
And Bill getting good luck.
This is Dan (by the end of the trip known as 'Ranger Dan') enjoying the bush.
The beautiful bush.
And a weka.
A robin.
Tomtit.
Red crowned parakeet.
Yellow crowned parakeet.
This plant is used by Māori like glad wrap and the stems used like straws. I missed it's name.
This is the dinosaur plant - about a million years old.
On the beach Grace told the story of the young white sailor who survived a shipwreck and landed here. A Maori women covered him with a korowai cloak of feathers when he arrived and he survived. He learnt the language and lived amongst Maori and conversed with pakeha that arrived on ships. The bay is called Sydney Cove and I think that was named after the ship that he was on that was wrecked. Here is Bill enjoying the walk and the bay.
I got sidetracked with a fantail.
Grace had to come and get me.
Apparently they'd been waiting for a while - but I was happy.
Then it was back to the South Seas Hotel and we played cards - 'Up and Down the River'. We all played. I don't remember who won. It can't have been me then. The rules are below if anyone wants to play. We have some changes from the video - first obvious one is 'river' rather than 'creek'. We don't rely on fingers, we have a recorder. Points are 10 plus 5 for every trick you say and get, -5 for every trick you miss what you say by. It is very tense and I love winning this game. Bill loves beating me because he knows how much I like to win. I notice I am not alone in this group in liking to win.
I didn't get a photo of us playing the game sorry.